LOS ANGELES — Duff Goldman is like the James Brown of bakers - the hardest-working man in the cake business.
He's also in the middle of figuring out life after "Ace of Cakes." After 10 seasons of the Food Network show that catapulted Goldman to chef-lebrity status but ended in February (to the chagrin of devoted fans), he moved to Los Angeles to open the West Coast version of his famed Baltimore cake shop and shot six episodes of his latest TV foray as host of the dessert program "Sugar High."
Shooting was two months of riding around on his Harley in Los Angeles, Chicago, Dallas, Philadelphia, Boston and New Orleans, eating desserts and talking to pastry chefs. For Goldman, it's a departure from the "docu-soap" that featured his bakery, its quirky staff and the sculptural, oddball-themed cakes that captured America — a pinball machine, a Blackhawk helicopter, a '57 Chevy, a scene from "The Exorcist," the cast of "Kung Fu Panda," a bust of Marie Antoinette, the Millennium Falcon, rendered with butter cream, fondant and strategically placed Rice Krispies treats.
"Cake shows were getting saturated," says Goldman, 36. (There are "Ultimate Cake Off," "Wedding Cake Wars," "Cake Boss" and "Amazing Wedding Cakes," to name a few.) But in August 2006, when "Ace of Cakes" — born of a theatrical series featuring Goldman called " ... You! Let's Bake!" — first aired, it was a breakout show that helped Food Network gain cachet and millions of viewers.
More than a hundred episodes later, Food Network in November announced it would cancel "Ace of Cakes" and develop a new project with Goldman, who — in a predictability of marketing that has seized on his facial hair, earrings and tattoos — is occasionally referred to as "the bad boy of baking." After all, the same chef-rocker-jock persona has worked for Guy Fieri, who has become the face of Food Network.
"The concept is not genius," Goldman admits. "I ride around the country, show up on a motorcycle and eat dessert. What's new is how you present it. ... I'm a dude on a bike who likes chocolate and custard."
Meanwhile, Charm City Cakes West, a temporary bakery in a former restaurant until it moves to its permanent space down the street near the Ed Hardy store on Melrose, is just up and running — but not open to the public — and taking orders through its website. A satellite of the Baltimore bakery, it already is churning out wedding cakes and cakes for parties. (They start at $7 a serving with a 50-serving minimum for tiered cakes, and the minimum is $1,000 for a sculptural custom cake.)
It's not all sugar flowers, marzipan and dragees. Along with tubs of fondant, metro shelves are stacked with mallets, metal cutters, latex gloves, boba straws (used as supports that displace less cake than dowels), Gorilla Glue, power drills, protective eyewear, painters tape and drywall screws. In the kitchen is a single working oven and a custom metallic purple Hobart mixer sent by a fan that can mix 15 pounds of butter cream.
A staff of seven — all but one from the Baltimore bakery and recognizable from "Ace of Cakes" — works in the makeshift bakery, with Anna Ellison, a former graphic design student who started working with Goldman when he was still baking cakes out of his house, as executive chef.
"Moving knocked us out of our comfort zone," Goldman says. "L.A.'s a small town, smaller than Baltimore (because) everyone talks. I want them to say, 'Hey, these kids are on the ball."'
While Ellison and cake decorator Katherine Hill work on a fondant-covered Styrofoam mock-up of a 5-foot-tall cake (the preliminary step in their cake-making process), Tim Martin is detailing the gum paste teeth and claws of a rancor monster from "Star Wars: Episode VI - Return of the Jedi." "You know, when Luke got shoved into that pit by Jabba the Hut...," Goldman explains. "What? You don't know how many teeth a rancor has?"
Martin, the new hire and a special-effects artist who has worked on "X-Men Origins" and "Spider-Man," paints each individual claw and tooth with a wash of food coloring and vodka. Like most of the rest of the staff, he had little or nothing to do with cakes before working for Charm City. "I've worked with dinosaurs for over a decade," Martin says. "It's a mix of two worlds." Martin also has created a true-to-life octopus cake and a giant, Baroque winged angel doing a backbend while holding up a cupcake in one hand.
"There's a process to the experience of a cake," Goldman says. "You walk in, you see that cake (pointing to a wedding cake), you know it's a classy wedding and you're going to get a good cut of meat with that. This cake (pointing to the rancor): 'Whoa, big crazy monster.' And then somebody tells you, 'Oh, by the way, that's a cake,' and then you look at it closely and really examine it. Then it's cut up, and my favorite part - you're thinking, 'There's no way it can possibly taste good.' But that's what we do. You can't just make a pretty sculpture. It's visual, but that doesn't mean you spend any less time on making it taste good."
His favorite? "Our carrot cake is ridonculous. ... Curry banana. Nobody's ordered it yet. I hope they do. But I get it. You're gonna tell your mom you're getting curry banana for your wedding cake?"
And in his post-"Ace of Cakes" bakery, Goldman is pushing wedding cakes and smaller cakes in an effort to remind potential customers that they don't have to order a $9,000 cake with a working engine. He also says he has a surprise plan for the permanent L.A. bakery: "If you have kids, you're going to love it."
In the meantime, Goldman is still awaiting word on whether the Food Network will pick up another season of "Sugar High."
His manager-producer and brother, Willie Goldman, is banking on "Duff just being Duff," complete with the raunchy jokes and the occasional belching, and the enthusiasm for learning how to make fortune cookies (as he did in one episode).
"I would love to see an L.A.-based version of 'Ace of Cakes,"' Willie Goldman says. "Speaking as a television producer, it consistently kills me that (some of the cakes here) aren't on TV. ... We had one client order a life-size baby elephant. It really would have been the perfect segment for a TV show about cake."
Charm City carrot cake with Duff's cream cheese icing
Total time: 1 hour, 15 minutes, plus cooling time for the cakes
Servings: 12 to 16
Note: Adapted from Duff Goldman's Charm City Cakes.
Scant 3 cups (12.5 ounces) flour
1 1/4 cups (9.7 ounces) sugar
3/4 cup (4.85 ounces) light brown sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 eggs, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 packed cups finely shredded carrots
Heat the oven to 350 degrees.
Into a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and salt.
In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a medium bowl using a hand mixer, whip the eggs until they thicken and ribbons form when the beater is lifted, 3 to 5 minutes. Slowly add the oil and vanilla extract to the whipped eggs.
Gently fold the liquid mixture into the dry ingredients to form the batter; it may feel a little thick. Add the shredded carrots and gently but evenly fold them into the batter.
Pour the batter into two (8-inch) round pans lined with parchment. Bake until the cakes are puffed, golden and set, and a toothpick inserted comes out clean, 35 to 45 minutes. Rotate halfway through for even baking. Remove and set aside on racks to cool before unmolding.
Cream Cheese Icing
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups sifted powdered sugar
Cooled carrot cakes
In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl using a hand mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter until well blended and lightened in texture. Beat in the vanilla until blended.
Slowly beat in the powdered sugar until the icing is smooth and spreadable, then frost the cake.
Each of 16 servings: 536 calories; 5 grams protein; 58 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 32 grams fat; 8 grams saturated fat; 77 mg cholesterol; 40 grams sugar; 266 mg sodium.
2011 the Los Angeles Times